JerryM New Member. Hello everyone. I'm installing a no caulk shower drain for the first time and I'm looking for instructions on how to do it correctly. The one that I am replacing is leaking somewhere and is causing serious damage to the room downstairs. I know that I already have to replace the damaged drywall below so gaining access underneath is not an issue. Also, when looking at the drain line it doesn't seem to be supported well enough around the bottom of the stall one-piece fiberglass and right now it seems to me that the weight of someone using it in the future will cause this to happen again.
Do I use ABS glue in fitting the new drain to the drain line? Should I strap the line? Any ideas? Thanks bunches, JerryM. Gary Swart In the Trades. The same rule applies to PVC solvent Your drain fitting should have directions for installation enclosed. The shower stall rests all of its weight on the floor, usually with mortar spotted beneath to prevent sagging or flexing under heavy weight, and is nailed or screwed to the studs at the top and down the edges to keep it from shifting.
The drain does not support any weight. The pipe needs to be cut to the correct height as will be indicated in the drain fitting instructions. Follow the instructions carefully and you shouldn't have a problem. Master Plumber Mark Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls. Messages 5, Reaction score Points 83 Location indianapolis indiana - land of the free, home of Website weilhammerplumbing.
Remember -if you dont squeeze out most of the putty it will not tighten down properly and the flange will loosen up over time normally this is done on the rough inn with a large 24 inch Rigid wrench which you cant use in this situatioin In a few of my more mean situations, I opted to use clear water proof silicone instead of putty on the lip of that flange Just clean it up with your finger on both the top and bottom Last edited: Nov 4, Toddtsch New Member.
Messages 1 Reaction score 0 Points 0. Did not come with installation instructions. It comes with wrench included. After installation should the wrench be removed? If so, how? Should silicone be used to seal? Toddtsch said:. Click to expand Phil Clemence New Member. Messages 22 Reaction score 0 Points 0. Messages 8 Reaction score 0 Points 0. Know the local code requirements. Other Tips to Avoid Installation Issues: Know the correct order for installing the rubber washer and friction washer.
The large rubber sealing washer will be placed up against the underside of the shower base, and the friction washer will be placed between the rubber sealing washer and locking nut. Chamfering the pipe end will help prevent gasket damage and is recommended. Chamfering refers to removing the sharp edge on the outside of the pipe which will prevent gouging and the possibility of cutting into the rubber gasket.
Know the correct direction of the No-Caulk washer. Flat end down; beveled side must be up. Use a screwdriver for the removal Place the end of the screwdriver under the notched area of the strainer Apply light upward pressure while being careful to not damage the finished surface No-caulk shower drain cover should release from shower base If you have any questions or concerns regarding the removal of your strainer, please contact Oatey Customer Service at technical oatey.
No, adding the caulk can affect the capability to create a watertight seal in the shower base. Do you need a pan liner for the No-caulk shower drain? No, the shower base is considered to be the waterproof barrier. How high should the PVC pipe sit inside the drain body to ensure proper installation?
Any tips for getting the rubber to slide over the PVC easily? Chamfering, also known as beveling, on the outside of the vertical DWV pipe after it has been cut to the desired length will prevent any gasket damage and allow the gasket to be pushed down easily to the base of the drain body.
Do you need to use a sealant between the flange and the shower base to keep water from leaking through the threads? If installing an approved no-caulk drain with plumber's putty in colder temperatures , tighten into place and then allow for 20 mins of rest time.
Then retighten drain to ensure all excess plumber's putty is removed from under the flange. By using our website you agree to these Terms of Use. Related Resources. Oatey Drain Seal. How to Repair Broken Toilet Flange. See More. After the toilet has been removed, you must remove the existing toilet bolts and clean all the old wax off the existing toilet flange. Decide how much height is needed in order for the bottom of the top flange to be parallel with the finished floor height.
You should replace the existing flange if it is broken or rusted badly; the spacer kit will not work for this application. After confirming the existing flange is in good condition, install the new extra-long toilet bolts into the flange. This will ensure that all voided areas are water tight between the transition points. This will compress and hold the spacers in place. It is recommended that you try and secure the new spacer or spacers to the subfloor through the four holes molded into the spacers.
You can now install a wax seal and finish the toilet installation. Never use one of the seals in place of the wax seal.
Is there a flange that can be used to replace a broken or corroded cast iron flange for a toilet? Oatey offers three styles of repair flanges for this application. The first is the No-Caulk cast iron repair flange which comes in two depths.
Once the old flange is removed and cast iron pipe is cleaned off, these flanges will slide over the vertical cast iron drain pipe. The flat side of the gasket should be facing down and resting on the inside bottom lip of the flange. Tightening the four bolts in even rotation will compress the gasket against the outside of the pipe, and create a water tight seal. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor.
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